The concept of the terroir — authentically wholesome cooking based on high-quality, regional ingredients used with innovation and flair, is making a comeback, providing an exciting response to the recent wave of “fashion” restos that have tended to concentrate on decor and hype rather than cuisine.
Le Chamarré 13 bd La Tour Maubourg, 7e, M° La Tour Maubourg, tel: 01 47 05 50 18, closed Sat lunch and Sun, menu 45E/30E This sophisticated restaurant is remarkable for the manner in which it is able to balance exotic flavors and natural ingredients from Mauritius with the precise, confident cooking of classic French cuisine. Presided over with élan by chefs Antoine Heerah and Jerôme Bodereau, the restaurant’s airy terraces and lemon-hued walls create a feeling of intimacy and spaciousness. We were equally impressed both with the entrée, perfectly seasoned coulmelles mushrooms from the Limousin region, served with a frothy emulsion of angelica on a bed of baby spinach and with the main course of roast suckling pig, studded with spices and accompanied by a purée of banana and green beans. The meat was tender with subtle lemony undercurrents. Among the desserts try the house specialty: an outstanding Basmati ice cream with Savarin cake. EEE
Quai V 25 quai de la Tournelle, 5e, M° Maubert-Mutualité, tel: 01 43 54 05 17, closed Sat & Mon lunch & Sun, menus 17E, 22E, 28.50E, 37.50E Nestled in one of the most charming neighborhoods of Paris, that is surprisingly lacking in well-priced, quality bistros, Quai V offers a beautiful view onto the Ile-St-Louis, and an attractive interior with mustardy walls and lemon-toned linen that recall the sunshine of Provence. Chef Patrick Goimbault has a knack for marrying strong, earthy ingredients with delicate textures such as wonderful tiny parcels of cabbage with langoustine stuffing and a lovely combination of snails and mushrooms in ravioli served with a herb sauce. The simply prepared line-caught sea bass on a bed of lightly sautéed leek and twirls of crispy skin was perfect for lunch while the veal chop with a savory crust contrasted well with its creamy risotto. There is a very attractive wine list from local producers at affordable prices. EEE
La Villa Corse 164 bd de Grenelle, 15e, M° Cambronne, tel: 01 53 86 70 81, closed Sun, menu 20E The Corsican cuisine of La Villa Corse, with its generous portions, emphasis on robust, authentic ingredients and its openness to French and Italian influences, is a fine example of the terroirconcept. The large, innovative decor, which proffers intimate divisions between distinctive dining spaces as well as a superb lounge area with leather armchairs, displays its heritage proudly — with old prints of Corsica, and occasional maritime touches. The marinated red mullet with walnut oil and pine nuts made a fine starter, as did the lush courgette soup with croutons and truffle oil. Equally impressive were the stafatu de veau, a handsome Corsican veal stew with plump, delicious olives and the emincé d’espadon, swordfish served with Corsican mountain herbs. There is an ample choice of Corsican wines as well as their famous chestnut-flavored beer. EE
Visconti 4 rue de l’Arcade, 8e, M° Madeleine, tel: 01 42 65 53 13, closed Sun lunch In the heart of Paris’ shopping district, this welcoming, family-run establishment is a good find in a bustling neighborhood. The cozy upstairs rooms are decorated to recall the Abruzzo origins of the family. We began with a risotto based on luscious porcini mushrooms, that had a superb texture and consistency, and a hearty, soothing cannelloni alla fiorentina. The veal with sliced artichokes had a pleasing lemony flavor, and a superb tender filet of beef was heaped with morel mushrooms. The wine list provides a good round-up of leading regional Italian wines. Spare a moment at the end of the meal to enjoy the photos on the staircase showing chef Michele with some of his celebrity guests, including a delighted-looking Brigitte Bardot. EEE
Chez Françoise Aerogare des Invalides, rue Constantine, 7e, M° Invalides, tel: 01 47 05 49 03, open daily, menu 28.50E Founded in 1949 at Air France’s headquarters, this neighborhood institution began its life as a glamorous excuse for one last feast before undertaking the novelty of a plane trip. Today, thanks to its proximity to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, you’re as likely to come across politicians, diplomats and journalists as globetrotters. The decor evokes exotic destinations and offers a choice between the garden terrace area and a discreet, stylish circular room where crisp waiters hover efficiently. Our entrées were pan-fried wild cèpes mushrooms with butter and garlic, and small Saint Pierre roasted whole in a butter sauce, which was fresh, simple and excellent value. The satisfying main courses also had a bright, appealing vigor: a generous slice of calf's liver with lemon and roasted colinot with eggplant. EEE
Grains de Sel 136 avenue Felix Faure, 15eme, tel: 01 40 60 13 45, M° Félix Faure, closed Sat lunch, Sun dinner & Mon Large street windows warmed by chocolate-colored curtains lead into a dining room with pristine walls, charcoal and white linen, and wooden paneling. Thoughtful touches such as large bouquets of flowers, pretty napkin holders and wooden pots of grains of salt are designed to make you feel at home. We started with the croustillant d’anchois, layers of fresh, plump anchovies in a feuille de brick and a Feuilleté de ris de veau aux champignons sauvages, a generous and succulent rendering of sweetbreads, which have only just been allowed back on the market. Our main courses were extremely generous: an enormous gigotin of lamb accompanied by courgettes and braised guinea fowl. Our bottle of Haut Médoc Château Picourneau was exceedingly good value at 21E. EEE
Brasserie Flottes 2 rue Cambon, 1er, M° Concorde, tel: 01 42 60 80 89, open daily, menus 21E, 26E This bustling brasserie is a handy address for this neighborhood. Founded nearly four decades ago by the Flottes family, hailing from the Auvergne region, it relies on fresh ingredients to produce dishes that are at once traditional and innovative. While the tables along the bar witness the frantic action of a busy brasserie, the large back rooms and immense cellar dining area are much more sedate. We were impressed with the superb terrine of poireaux aux cèpes, one of the best we’ve tried for a long time. Among the establishment’s specialties, tender-cooked lamb shanks with rosemary were copious and succulent, while another house hit, the veal liver pan fried with raspberry vinegar, was perfectly cooked, with a lovely balance of sweet and tart tastes. EE
Price Key: E = up to 25E, EE = up to 35E, EEE = more than 35E. Prices are based on the average cost of an entrée, a main course and a dessert and do not include wine. Although every care is taken in compiling estimates, we cannot assume responsibility for any fluctuations or changes.
