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Roller "Balade"
Paris on wheels
by Robert Blackshaw

Skates, Boards and Blades


K
ids love roller-skating. And parents love excursions en famille that involve visiting those parts of Paris most appreciated by the cognoscenti. Combine everybody’s passions and impress your kids by participating in one of the city’s famed roller “balades.”

You’ve seen these things: 10,000 pairs of roller-blades — surrounded by a “rollercade” of cops on roller-skates, mopeds, cars andanimateurs — take over the boulevards, slithering past “innocent bystanders” like some great big human python with a mind of its own.

Come to think of it, where does the beast live? We went looking for its lair and found it, just off place de la Bastille, at a very special boutique named Nomade (37, bd Bourdon, 4e). Nomade organizes events, lessons and hires or sells skates, blades and all sorts of roller accessories. It also has a bar and test-track at the back.

A family-oriented outing, promoted by a non-profit organization called Roller et Coquillages, starts off in front of Nomade every Sunday afternoon. Basic roller skills are essential, but once you’ve mastered the macadam, this event, conceived more for comfort than speed, is right for families. There is also the famous Friday night gig that kicks off at place d'Italie at around 10pm. This is quite a carnival — perhaps too much so — and a bit too late for kids. And, the level is serious, too serious for novice skaters

Who participates? It’s Franco-French crowd — which provides ample opportunities to fraternize and review hackneyed stereotypes. Who says the French smoke like chimneys, drink like fish and never exercise? Many in the crowd we saw could pass for surf rats from Santa Monica in their Quicksilver “boardies,” Oakleigh sunglasses and bandannas.

Maybe you don’t want to be part of a herd. Maybe, you’d rather head off solo? Whatever your preference, here are a few tips to help you make the most of skating in Paris.

Choose a lovely day... And, above all, don’t plan to go too far; tired kids are grumpy kids. Opt for boulevards or streets with broad sidewalks so you can skate hand in hand. Wide pavements also allow you to give dogs (excitable), old folks (impressionable) and other tykes (irrational) extra berth. Avoid hills — they’re exhausting on the way up and scary on the way down. Head for spots that please and have something to offer (the Eiffel Tower, Jardin des Plantes or the Luxembourg Gardens). Pre-plan stops for snacks (how about a picnic?) and the essential pee-pee pause. Check that kiddies’ feet are OK and gauge their energy and “water levels” before pushing on.

Some of the city’s best skating pavements are avenue Daumesnil, boulevard Richard Lenoir and the Quai de Jemmapes, all the way along picturesque canal St-Martin, while the sidewalks surrounding the lawns in front of Les Invalides and in the vicinity of the Ecole Militaire also constitute excellent surfaces. On Sundays — when they are shut to traffic— the banks of the Seine are generally thronged with skaters, but the shady streets that frame the Eiffel Tower and the Champs de Mars (for instance, rue Charles Floquet) are further good bets. Mainly for serious roller-bladers, the Parisian skater’s bible par excellence is a guide dubbed“Paris comme sur des roulettes.” It comprises 24 color-coded maps detailing the width, height and gradients of 3,500 kilometers of the capital’s sidewalks and lists vital data such as the nature of street surfaces (from cobblestones to asphalt), drinking water and WC stops, phonebooths, itineraries, etc.

Ace spots for observing trick skaters and skateboarders showing off “hot dog” techniques include the forecourts at the Trocadéro and Palais Royal. The ghetto blasters and Boyz in the Hood ambience at these locations will keep kids and couch potatoes alike entertained. Before trying the same moves though, think about insurance.


FAST FACTS


Skaters and the law.
Skaters are categorized as pedestrians and are therefore obliged to stick to sidewalks and only cross streets at pedestrian crossings (with the “little green man”). Break the rules and you can be fined up to 250F. Likewise, government decrees forbid skating in certain areas and these restrictions seem to be accumulating (e.g. the metro). Private enterprise isn’t always skater-friendly either (the grands magasins are out of bounds). As for skateboarding, it’s simply outlawed in Paris. This silly law placing the dreaded skateboard in the “dangerous games” slot dates back to1862. Getting caught boarding can incur a fine of up to 250F.

Insurance
Considered as pedestrians, skaters are covered by third party civil insurance. However, don’t hesitate to contact your insurer and, if necessary, take out a specific policy that will repay your medical costs in case of accident.

Security
You’re in the driver’s seat, so avoid skating when you’re tired, drunk, or under medication.

Equipment
Before you setting out, check the condition of the bearings (oiled), wheels (screwed tight) and the break pad (ample). Carry a backpack containing Allen keys, spare bearings and break pads, drinking water and an energy bar. Have your ID, social security, and blood type cards on you. A portable phone can prove handy. And — a helmet and knee, wrist and elbow protection are all recommended


Young skater at the Trocadéro