Paris' top terraces
by Julie Baker

The restaurants below offer the pleasures of dining al fresco, as well as cuisine that combines respect for tradition with contemporary innovation and international accents.

Cercle Ledoyen Carré des Champs-Elysées, 8e, Mº Champs-Elysées Clemenceau, tel: 01 53 05 10 02, closed weekends. Enclosed by a high wall of green and the flutter of tall, white canvas umbrellas, the terrace of this chic restaurant is a particularly dreamy spot for a summer meal. And thanks to Chef Christophe Le Squer, the food really does match the setting. For entrées try the superbly flavored cold melon soup with delicate carvings of jellied porto and almonds giving extra texture or the cool salmon and leek terrine, outstanding both in taste and presentation. Main courses include tender rabbit braised in vin jaune, a splendid carré d’agneau and a wide selection of fish, such as a filet of seabass, served with shredded courgette with cheese. Among the desserts, the shimmering chocolate dome looks sensational and is unexpectedly light, accompanied by caramel ice cream. The admirable wine list holds some surprising champagne bargains. Service is superb. $$$

Pataquès 40 bd de Bercy, 12e, Mº Bercy, tel: 01 43 07 37 75, open daily. Menus 100F & 110F. This newly-opened Provençal restaurant boasts a yellow and orange interior and a long, languid terrace. Begin with one of the delightful and inexpensive homegrown Provençal aperitifs, before moving on to summery entrées such as fresh sardines stuffed with raisins and confit onions and encased in a delicate pastry that is deep-fried. Main courses include a succulent beef estoufado, simmered in a red wine sauce sweetened with orange and presented on a bed of homemade gnocchis, or a classic côte de veau, garnished with panisses, puréed chick-peas served as French fries. Desserts are inspired by flowers, such as the chocolate tart flavored with thyme or the orange salad with crystallized violettes. The wine list is very reasonable and offers mainly small, regional products. Service is friendly and efficient. $

La Doganella Ristorante 47 av Raymond Poincaré, 16e, Mº Victor Hugo, tel : 01 47 27 98 40, open daily. Menus 140F & 160F. La Doganella is a synthesis of all you would expect a fine contemporary Italian restaurant to be: stylish, sophisticated and innovative. The spacious, half-enclosed terrace and soothing, cool interior sets the tone for a refined cuisine that re-directs simple classics with bold precision. A good example is their roquette and Parma salad served with shaved black truffles and cèpes, an extraordinary combination. Among the other entrées, the selection of antipasti is great value. Main courses include a pan-fried medallion of suckling veal with grilled mozzarella and some magnificent ravioli stuffed with asparagus tips and cèpes and served in a cream-based sauce. Fresh strawberries simmered in balsamic vinegar put a superb finish to the meal. Service is warm and gracious and the selection of Italian wines a marvel. $$$

Spicy 8 av Franklin Roosevelt, 8e, Mº Franklin D Roosevelt, tel: 01 56 59 62 59, open daily. Menu 159F. The leafy sidewalk terrace is a great place to enjoy the successful new menu that explores international spice combinations with attractive and often playful presentations. The wine list has gone international too, with a fine selection including an excellent Australian Chardonnay. Among the entrées, try the “false sushi” (false because the fish is marinated) served on a minimalist slate plate. Main courses include filets of rouget served à l’étouffée: inside a bamboo steamer, upon a bed of tagliatelle wrapped around a shot glass full of curry sauce, or crispy cod fish accompanied by caramelized fennel bulbs. The house dessert — coffee poured onto ice cream and topped with caramel cream — is fun to prepare and tastes great. Service is bright and friendly. $$

Le Marcande 52 rue de Miromesnil, 8e, Mº Miromesnil, tel : 01 42 65 19 14, closed weekends. Menu 240F. Two beautiful rooms with spacious seating, original artwork and a summery, Tuscan tone open out onto a delightful courtyard terrace, with a murmuring fountain. Built around the seasons with a special emphasis on fish, the cuisine attracts high-powered businessmen and politicians at lunch and a more relaxed clientele for dinner. Among the entrées, try the wonderfully fresh and tangy tartare of bream and salmon or a textured vegetable terrine with a creamy beetroot sauce. The handsome portion of turbot roasted on the bone is a splendid main dish, while the raspberry and wild strawberry fruit tart made a heavenly desert. The wine list holds many treasures and some real fines — our white Saumur was excellent and extremely-well priced at 130F. Service is impeccable. $$$

Auberge du Clou 30 av de Trudaine, 9e, Mº Pigalle, tel: 01 48 78 22 48, closed Sun & Mon. Menus 75F & 98F. Although the oak-dominated interior is extremely enticing, the shady terrace is irresistible in summer. Try the plump sardines, stuffed with a rich Moroccan marinade, or the aubergine pastilla drizzled with sesame seeds and oil and accompanied by a slightly-sweet herb sauce. There is a version of the New Orleans classic, jambalaya, filets of sea bream with a spicy Indonesian shrimp sambal, and a South American favorite, grilled steak with black beans, fried banana and a spicy tomato paste. A welcome spin on an old bistro favorite is the filet of goose accompanied by purées of sage and apple. The inviting wine list boasts selections from Chile, Sardinia and Spain as well as France. $

Café Barge Port de la Rapée, 12e, Mº Gare de Lyon, tel : 01 40 02 09 09, open daily. Menus 99F, 140F, 180F. While the enormous interior of the boat is perfect for summer with huge windows looking onto the river and sail-like rolls of fabric billowing in the breeze, the hip, mainly young clientele flock to the deck and quay-side terraces whenever the sun comes out. The cuisine is built around summery dishes with an international flavor such as the Italian-inspired tarte fine, with confit tomato interlayed with cheese, decorated with pesto sauce, basil leaf, oil and balsamic vinegar or the fresh asparagus served with puréed avocado and a coconut crème sauce. Special emphasis is given to fish, again with foreign influences, such as the monkfish curry, with hot and sweet spice accents. There is a good selection of regional wines. $$

Price Key: $=up to 160F. $$=up to 210F. $$$=more than 210F. Average price estimates include three courses without wine.