Cosmo Paris Dining
by Julie Baker

Marais menus

The Marais is one of this capital’s eminently cosmopolitan areas, its ancient buildings and museums attracting students, artists and art lovers, shoppers and tourists. Home to the Jewish community in Paris, and more recently, to the city’s gay community, this neighborhood also provides some of the most varied and best-valued dining experiences in town.

L’Avili 27 rue du Roi de Sicile, 4e, M° Hôtel de Ville, tel: 01 48 87 90 20, open daily. Distinguished by an ideal corner location with a small but charming terrace, this justly reputed restaurant serves authentic Corsican dishes with pride and flair. Rich, crimson-hued tablecloths, pretty tiled floor, oak beams and cut stone walls lit by the flicker of oil lamps create a soothing and romantic setting that makes it popular for straight and gay couples alike. After aperitifs of Pietra beer, an amber, chestnut infused brew made in Corsica, we ordered the wild boar terrine with myrtle, and the superb sardine fillets proffered with slivers of fennel, then feasted on generous portions of roast baby goat, which is surprisingly uncommon in Paris. At once succulent and tender, it was presented with roasted potatoes and chestnuts, and was magnificently complemented by our domaine de Torraccia, a Corsican red of great character. The lemon cheesecake was light and subtle, just managing to avoid being a shade too dry. Diners with less appetite could make a meal out of the house soup, and there are several well-priced menus combinations.

Gli Angeli 5 rue St-Gilles, 3e, M° Chemin Vert, tel: 01 42 71 05 80, open daily. This bustling, welcoming Italian restaurant attracts a friendly crowd of locals and a few lucky tourists lost on their way from the place des Vosges to the Picasso Museum. Overlooked by a well-stocked bar and the flare and snap of flames from the kitchen, the main dining room has wooden beams, large paintings and a slightly chilly floor. The terrace is always crowded, even in winter, when a brace of braziers keep temperatures high. We started with an excellent rendition of the Sicilian classic penne rigati alla Norma — a generous helping with expertly cooked pasta. The cuisson of the gnocchi with roquette pesto sauce was also irreproachable. Our equally handsome tuna steak was perfectly seared and served with chopped garlic and parsley and a fresh tomato sauce, while the steak was tender with a delicate touch of sage. Like all the ingredients, our rocket salad was dazzlingly fresh. The wine list covers a wide range of Italy at very fair prices, and we were taken with our velvety Sardinian red.

Piccolo Teatro 6 rue des Ecouffes, 4e, M° St-Paul, tel: 01 42 72 17 79, closed Mon. With dim lights, battered tommettes, huge oak beams, big windows, old-style tables and chairs, and stone walls warmed by hanging woollen rugs, this charming, relaxed and congenial place belies the clichéd image of vegetarian restaurants as functional and a little characterless. Its low prices, innovative combinations and generous portions attract a young alternative crowd of students, artists, gays and lesbian clients from the famous bar, Les Scandaleuses, next door. Friendly service, homemade desserts and a selection of bio wines add to its appeal. We started with the soup of the day, a hearty and richly flavored borsch, which could be ordered with or without crème fraiche, followed by one of the house specialties, the gratin de jour, an immense helping of sweet potato and spinach with a rich cheese topping.

Auberge de Jarente 7 rue de Jarente, 4e, M° St-Paul, tel: 01 42 77 49 35, closed Sun & Mon. Located on a charming side street not far from the place des Vosges, this popular Basque establishment has a warm, inviting interior, with exposed stone, tiny bar, downstairs cellar and chisteras, the wicker hand scoops used in pelota, hanging beside leather botas on mustard-colored walls. The friendly and considerate service and nice selection of well priced lesser-known regional wines, such as our fine Tuscan, gives it the relaxed feel of an authentic provincial restaurant. From the selection of entrées, we had a wonderful fricassée of whole baby calamari with thick slices of spicy chorizo sausage displayed in a piping hot earth terrine, and the piperade de Saint Jean — essentially scrambled eggs served with red peppers, tomato, onions and ham — which looked somewhat shapeless on the plate. Our immense cassoulet with confit de canard, porc and saucisson would have satisfied the most ravenous of appetites, while a very pleasant lemon zest undercurrent gave this traditional fare an unexpected lift. A perfect slice of Brie was followed by a rich fondant au chocolat, its intensity hushed by crème anglaise, and a freshly made, agreeably moist gâteau Basque.

Caves St Gilles 4 rue St Gilles, 3e, M° Filles du Calvaire, tel: 01 48 87 22 62, no credit cards. Tucked away in a lovely part of the Marais, this is just the place to linger over a long, hearty meal with the family or a few drinks and tapas with friends, especially at night when its appealingly lit interior attracts an international crowd. Stepping into this cheerful corner establishment, which boasts a small but sunny sidewalk terrace, makes you feel as though you’ve crossed the border into Spain. Bright tiles, a tapas-loaded bar, tauromachia on the walls, Spanish staff, and a patron glancing through El Pais — all set the mood for a casual and filling lunch in a bustling yet welcoming environment. Although the food is fresh and portions large, the cuisine is not always as authentically Spanish as the decor: witness the weekend paella. The ample serving of seafood didn’t make up for the fact that it wasn’t presented in a paella dish. Still, prices are low, and classic standbys like tortilla and pata negra make the grade.