Food with a foreign accent

by Julie Baker

Foreign restaurants provide some of the most innovative dining experiences in town.

Il Viaggio 34 rue de Bourgogne, 7e, M° Varenne, tel: 01 45 55 80 75, closed Sat lunch and Sun. This elegant Italian restaurant attracts a mix of romantic couples, locals and discerning Italians from the nearby embassy, along with the odd politician from the Assemblée Nationale. Chef Giovanni Perrone has created a gastronomic menu that embraces the warm generosity of Italian cuisine as well as the sensuousness of French presentation. After an amuse-bouche of marinated mushrooms and broccoli proffered on a paper-thin slice of Parma ham and accompanied by the aroma of bread freshly-baked on the premises, it was a delight to discover the expertly grilled marinated vegetables and the wonderful pappardelle served with a slightly spicy tomato and aubergine sauce. Like all the pasta here, it was homemade. For a main course try the intriguing foie de veau with a luscious sauce of coffee and amaretto, a heavenly combination, or the lamb fillet in a herb crust. Both were cooked to perfection. The chef has the knowledge and insight to stock his cellar with little known superb Italian wines. We were recommended a red Aglianico Ré Manfredi that had great character and depth and that went perfectly with our choices.

Le Janissaire 22-24, allée Vivaldi, 12e, M° Daumesnil, tel: 01 43 40 37 37, closed Sat lunch and Sun. Located on the lovely promenade that links the Bastille to the Bois de Vincennes, this pleasant interior features oak paneling, rich ochre walls and coffee colored carpet — all of which creates a glowing, welcoming warmth, accentuated by authentic Ottoman details such as pewter vases with single slender roses and silk rugs. The cuisine embodies traditional Turkish classics presented with style and generosity by the very friendly staff. We started with the mezze, an assortment of cold entrées, including delicious homemade servings of hommus, eggplant caviar and tarama accompanied by irresistible warm Turkish bread, and a plate of tender calamari, made spicy with garlic and tomato. As main courses we chose a house specialty, lamb shanks cooked for hours to melting tenderness and seasoned with undercurrents of spiciness, and lamb served with aubergines and yoghurt that had a rich soothing texture, the smoky taste of the grill contrasting nicely with the yoghurt. Among the desserts, it’s hard to resist the assortment, which offers tiny portions of traditional and innovative desserts, such as caramelized pumpkin, mini confit aubergines, and lookum (Turkish delight) tantalizingly perfumed with rose water.

Asian 30 av George V, 8e, M° George V, tel: 01 56 89 11 00, open daily. Just near the Champs-Elysées, this is a restaurant with nightclub sensibilities that attracts a branché clientele of couples and trios. A long sleek corridor leads into a sophisticated lounge area with Japanese-like tables and chairs. The downstairs dining section is a huge loft space with exposed ceilings, antique colonial furniture and stands of high bamboo. There is also a more intimate room between the bar and open kitchen with low ceilings and glowing pillar lights garbed in fishnet stockings. For all the punch of the restaurant's visuals, the culinary side hasn't been ignored, thanks to new management who have re-invigorated the theme of cross-Asian influences, installing Japanese, Thai and Chinese chefs, expanding the wine list and overhauling the notoriously bad service. Our entrées of shrimp tempura and steamed dim sum nicely demonstrated the fusion style, but it was the magnificent daurade royale for two, expertly prepared by our waitress, and served crispy and hot, that truly impressed. It was accompanied by a wonderfully dense, aromatic sauce and side orders of wok-fried broccoli, mushrooms and carrots, and excellent rice noodles. Service by the young, elegant staff was attentive and friendly throughout.

Oishi 102 rue de Richelieu, 2e, M° Richelieu Drouot, tel: 01 42 96 45 94, open daily. With its gray slate floor, high white ceiling, blond wood chairs and tables, apricot-colored walls, open upstairs gallery and big windows looking out onto the street, Oishi's projects an image of clean, modern functionalism. Its authentic Japanese cuisine and assortment of reasonably priced menus attract media and business people from the nearby press agencies and the Bourse as well as local Japanese residents. The tempura moriawase, a combination of king prawns and vegetables served piping hot and without the oily excess that can so often spoil a tempura, was fresh, crisp and accompanied by grated daiken radish and ginger, which went superbly with the prawns. The sushi and temaki cornets are also excellent here, and among the assortments on offer were turbot and sea bass as well as cuttlefish, octopus and eel. It’s hard to resist the yakitori, the classic charcoal grilled skewers, as a contrast for the senses after the coolness of the sushi. Our Sancerre, Domaine Tassin, highlighted the dishes perfectly but for amateurs of Japanese cuisine there’s a selection of sake.

Joe Allen 30 rue Pierre Lescot, 1er, M° Etienne Marcel, tel: 01 42 36 70 13, open daily. Exposed brick walls, comfortably spaced tables and a magnificent bar make this the urban restaurant par excellence. And if you’ve been doing typically urban things the night before, why not try recovering over what many claim is the best Bloody Mary in town while studying the clientele, a mix of 30-somethings, expats and gay couples. Main courses tend to be very substantial affairs, such as the confit de canard glazed with honey and served with chunky mango chutney, the free-range chicken with barbecue sauce and baked potato or the salade niçoise presented with fresh grilled tuna. The plat du jour, grilled swordfish, was cooked just the way we liked it, a shade underdone, and was served with black olive butter, rice and tequila red beans which added a very subtle sweetness that contrasted nicely with the butter. Standouts among the desserts, which are all made on the premises, include apple pie with a light pastry and perfectly textured apple filling, and cheesecake that is rich yet not heavy. There is a popular Sunday brunch and regular special events, such as Oscar night.

Café Pacifico 50 bd Montparnasse, 15e, M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue, tel: 01 45 48 63 87, open daily. Done up like a Mexican cantina, with a spacious enclosed terrace at the front and a large open courtyard terrace overlooked by a tree at the back, the culinary emphasis here is on fresh, homemade ingredients with innovative Californian spins on traditional Mexican-based dishes. The long bar at the front, which is a popular meeting place for students and expats during happy hour, boasts an extraordinary array of tequilas and mescals. Order a smooth-as-silk frozen margarita, along with some guacamole and salsa accompanied with homemade corn chips, then try the generous gambas coco cuervo, or large shrimp cooked with coconut milk and pineapple and flamed with tequila. If you’re in search of a more traditional dish, there’s the chicken fajitas that arrives spectacularly sizzling on a cast-iron grill and is served with frijoles, grated cheese, guacamole and a platter of tortillas.¡Que bueno!