Restaurants
by Julie Baker

Specializing in spécialités

There are so many fine restaurants in Paris that one way to “stand out” is to offer a distinctive style of cuisine and produce, focusing on a particular region or country…

Mediterranean

Les Olivades 41 av de Ségur, 7e, M° Ségur, tel: 01 47 83 70 09, closed Sat lunch, Sun, Mon lunch, menus 27E & 32E, 5-course tasting menu 50E. When run by Chef Flora Mikula, clients had to put up with claustrophobic seating and unforgivably slow and sullen service to taste her cuisine du soleil... Thanks to new chef Bruno Deligne, the seating has become more spacious, service is much smarter, and the cooking remains innovative yet true to the spirit of the south. The warmth of the sun is reflected in the lemon walls, sienna tablecloths and original artwork inspired by corrida motifs. Choosing from the 32E menu, we began with an excellent fricassée of extremely tender snails and subtle spiciness built around thin curls of succulent Serrano ham, and an intriguing terrine of blood sausage and chestnuts with a compote of onions, pears and raisins. The main courses were a large daurade fillet served with tomato and a light dressing of olive oil and herbs, and a tender venison stew in a sweet red wine sauce surmounted by a celeriac purée with balsamic vinegar which lent a pleasing hint of acidity. Although we couldn’t taste the calissons d’Aix flavor of the ice cream, the tarte fine was lovingly executed. Our Minervois, very well priced at 18E, married well with the meat courses while not overpowering the fish. EEE

Fish

A&M Marée 105 rue de Prony, 17e, M° Pereire, tel: 01 44 40 05 88, closed Sat lunch and Sun, menu 30E. Until recently a neighborhood bistro, this restaurant has re-focused its attention on fish. Now under new management, it is attracting a sophisticated and well-heeled clientele who are at home with a stylish decor featuring a spectacular domed skylight, caramel and cream walls with ruby-flushed lamps, chocolate-colored carpet and banquettes, and magnificent orchids stunningly displayed in tall glass vases. Our à la carte entrées were a generous helping of brandade de morue stuffed within mildly spiced grilled peppers and the excellent tarte fine with langoustines, its light pastry layered with fresh tomatoes and plump langoustines that were cooked perfectly, just beyond transparency. Seared tuna steak as a main course again showed an impeccable sense of timing, while the very substantial fillet of rouget patterned with potato scales was a flawlessly executed rendition of an old classic. The wine list is quite extensive and features many lesser-known regional wines. Although tempted by the Collioure rosé, we were pleased with our white Côtes de Provence. We did however miss the absence of table linen and the superb service of the former incarnation. EEE

Lebanese

Fahr El Dine 30 rue de Longchamp, 16e, M° Iéna, tel: 01 47 27 90 00, open daily. A traditional Lebanese feast involves hospitality, sharing and abundance, all in large supply at this gastronomic restaurant that has just celebrated its 20th Anniversary. The caramel and coffee interior, enchanting whirr of songbirds and traditional music all evoke a soothing, romantic setting. We started by sharing the mixed cold hors-d’œuvres, a large platter that combined all of the mainstays of Lebanese fare, — hummus, tabbouli, fresh marinated cheeses, stuffed vine leaves... — then ordered a selection of the hot entrées, including an excellent spiced sausage, and Lebanese “pizzas,” which turned out to be delicious tiny discs of meat, tomato and pine nuts. Although lesser appetites could easily stop there, we were tempted by the charcoal grilled chicken with lemon, which was tender and moist, and the marinated lamb, perfectly accompanied by a rich Ksara Réserve du Couvent red, from a fine selection of Lebanese wines. Choosing the dessert was simple: an assortment of classic homemade pastries provided a gracious end to a memorable meal. EEE

Japanese

Kaiten 63 rue Pierre Charron, 8e, M° Franklin D. Roosevelt, tel: 01 43 59 78 78, open daily. Located in the heart of the fashion world's Golden Triangle, just a few steps from the Champs-Elysées, this new Japanese restaurant has a long, airy terrace and a luminous interior featuring blond wood paneling and tables. The elegant lighting fixtures include glass candle-like stems that glow then fade progressively, in a sequence of pastel nuances... Kaiten means “turning” in Japanese and is used to denote kaiten-zushi, a soundless conveyor belt system that serves fresh sushi on plates that are color-coded according to price that was devised by late Japanese superchef, Yoshiaki Shiraishi. The center piece of the restaurant is its large and spotless oval-shaped kaiten sushi bar, where a team of chefs prepare traditional delights such as tuna or salmon sashimi, temaki cornets with salmon eggs, and superb prawn tempura. The novelty of kaiten-zushi and the quality of the food have made it a hit with a hip, modish crowd that saunters off after dining to the Monkey Bar next door or Man Ray around the corner. There is also waiter service offering a selection of mainly fish dishes prepared by the interior kitchen staff — such as a superbly seasoned turbot and rich tuna steaks. The wine list is well chosen and there is a selection of Japanese beers and saké. EE

Italian

Villano 6 rue Ernest Renan, 15e, M° Sèvres Lecourbe, tel: 01 43 06 84 75, closed Sun & Mon, menu 13E. A large, airy front room, dominated by huge windows overlooking the street, and a delightful collection of plants and curios is “watched over” by an antipasti bar and leads to a warmer, more intimate back room. The modern feel is tempered by old etchings in ornate frames and aptly suggests the restaurant’s attitude to its cooking: rich generous dishes that combine just the right mixture of innovation and tradition. We were impressed with the abundance and quality of our antipasti, and the contrast of temperatures and textures. The thick slice of smoked cheese was an appropriate anchor for the plate. Although the sauces of our pasta courses, penne Pavarotti and a splendid rigatoni were based on similar ingredients, they maintained their individual character. Both dishes were abundant, perfectly cooked and served piping hot, and left little room to sample the small list of inexpensive desserts. Villano is definitely a find for those in search of a filling and inexpensive meal that is both simple yet produced with real care. E

Vegetarian

Piccolo Teatro 6 rue des Ecouffes, 4e, M° St-Paul, tel: 01 42 72 17 79, closed Mon. This charming, casual and welcoming vegetarian restaurant is an inexpensive haven in the heart of the Marais. A rustic, atmospheric decor of dim lights, battered tommettes, oak beams, big windows and stone walls warmed by hanging rugs belies the clichéd image of vegetarian restaurants as functional, over-lit and charmless. Low prices, innovative combinations and generous portions attract a young crowd of students, artists, gay and lesbian clients from the famous bar, Les Scandaleuses, next door. Friendly service, old-style tables and chairs, and a selection of bio wines add to its attraction. We started with the soup of the day, a hearty and richly flavored borsch, which could be ordered with or without crème fraîche, a considerate touch, followed by one of the house specialties, a huge gratin based on sweet potato, which regretfully ruled out any possibility of trying the scrumptious-looking homemade desserts. E

Price Key: E = up to 25 €, EE = up to 35 €, EEE = more than 35 €. Prices are based on the average cost of an entrée, a main course and a dessert from the â la carte menu and do not include wine. Although every care is made compiling estimates, we cannot assume responsibility