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The Loire Valley châteaux and Giverny are not to be missed, but they make up the France that every tourist sees, and where you find yourself side-by-side with tourists who are seeing all of Europe in 10 days. Because these places are more frequented by foreigners than the French themselves, the traveler seeking to "experience" France as well as the French sometimes feels shorted. The addresses below are for those who have gotten bored with classic guidebooks and want to see another side of France and the French from an insider's point of view. Goethe said that "Europe was made on the pilgrim road to Compostela." Many say that it was thanks to these pilgrim roads from England, Northern Europe, France, Portugal, etc., that literature, art and culture were spread throughout Europe the Way of Saint James thus giving rise to the first common consciousness of Europe. The traditional French Way starts in Le Puy (although there is also one that leaves from the Tour St-Jacques in Paris) and goes south, crossing the Pyrenees mountains toward Santiago in Spain. A friend, who has done segments of the Way over the last four years, upon arriving in Santiago last month, said that one of the most rewarding aspects of the pilgrimage is that not only do you get to see exquisite churches and monasteries along the way, but you get good exercise, you meet people from all over the world and all of you have something in common: to reach Compostela where Saint James' remains arrived in a boat in the ninth century and where all your sins will be forgiven. Pilgrimages are organized by the Association des Amis de St-Jacques and eight million visitors are expected this year. L'Association France-Italie organizes exclusive visits to privately-owned estates, manors and châteaux. Trips are tailored to the group's interests and availability, but are generally centered on Old World living, architecture and fine dining (including board and lodging) on the premises of these estates. Small groups only. Tel: 01.42.71.41.71. The typical tourist's visit of Chartres cathedral covers mainly the architecture and stained glass. There is, however, a mysterious side that has given rise to hundreds of pages of conjecture regarding the history of this telluric site. One concerns the Druidic goddess Isis, Demeter or Belisama (her name is not known for certain) who later became the Black Virgin at the onset of Christianity. Her statue we see at the end of the crypt gallery, which was originally a gallery for Druidic processions in devotion to this "virgin who was to give birth." The cathedral was by no means the first structure built on this site; the Druidic gallery was followed by a Roman temple and other churches, and some historians even say that there is a dolmen next to the crypt foundations. Lovers of art brut will love Jean Lindard's "cathedral." Linard, trained as an engraver, potter and sculptor, bought an abandoned silex quarry in the early '60s. This was the beginning of an architectural adventure. He set up his tent there and started building mosaic cathedral elements out of cement, glass, ceramic, etc. There are also special creations in homage to Nelson Mandela, Jesus (of course) and Monseigneur Gaillot. Take the D196 to Neuvy-Deux-Clochers; it's about 30 km north of Bourges. The Princesse de Broglie gives private cooking lessons in her apartment in the seventh arrondissement in Paris every morning (Mon through Fri from 10:30am to 1:30pm.) Sessions consist of cooking lunch together under her instruction, then eating with the princess. Art de vivre courses are given from 2:30-4:30pm in Spanish, French or English. Tel: 01.45.51.36.34. Umberto Eco buffs will love the underground passageways and general medieval atmosphere of Provins, former seat of the Counts of Champagne, which is only one hour east of Paris. Call 01.64.60.26.26 for information. The Traversac family owns several châteaux in fairy-tale settings. They offer weekend packages that include a Saturday night cocktail party, a classical or jazz concert (usually in the former ballroom), dinner, room and breakfast. They often have guest chefs and theme evenings as well, such as one memorable evening at Esclimont where there was as much Roederer Cristal champagne as you could drink; since this champagne was invented for Czar Nicolas of Russia, the menu included his favorite dishes, and all was washed down with live Chopin piano music in the background. All the châteaux have beautiful parks and large and numerous sitting rooms, as well as original furniture, paintings and decor. For more information, call the château closest to Paris, Château d'Esclimont, at 02.37.31.15.15; only one hour from Paris. Spend a weekend at Le Vieux Pont in Belcastel near Rodez, a sumptuous natural setting where you can surround yourself with peace and quiet. Nicole Fagegaltier is one of the top female chefs in France, and the rooms are charming and reasonably priced, most looking out on the river and the "old bridge." A medieval château towers over the hillside village, and 10 minutes down the road, tucked into the side of the cliff, you can visit Petit Lourdes. For hotel and restaurant reservations, call 05.65.64.52.29. The Faculté d'�nologie in Bordeaux offers wine discovery classes for both trained and untrained tongues. The emphasis is obviously Bordeaux wines, but other regions are touched upon. The number of one-week cycles varies every year, but there are generally at least 10. Write to the Faculté d'�nologie, 351, cours de la Libération, 33405 Talence Cedex or call 05.56.84.64.58. |
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