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Summer in Paris is a time when the Parisians abandon the city to its visitors who come from all over the world to discover its many wonders. And though some fashionable restaurants and hotspots close up shop during the month of August, there are still lots of things you can do to pass the time away in style. A Cultural Experience... "Garde-robe" In this, the third rotation of its permanent collection, the Musée des Arts de la Mode et du Textile presents an intimate look at the dress habits of the donors who contributed the 40 items showcased. Each donor's identity is revealed by a personal space designed by Eric Benquet, allowing the visitors to play peeping tom and draw their own conclusions about the taste and style of each individual. Fascinating and slightly embarrassing by its candid nature, the exhibition is divided in two parts, beginning with, "Rules of the Game," garments from the strict dress codes of the 18th and 19th centuries that laid the basis for 20th century design. The spotlight then shifts to "Gallery of Portraits," a look at the dress habits, fantasies and follies of famous and not so famous politicians and aristocracy, journalists and artists from the Duchess of Windsor to publishing mogul Hélène Lazareff all of whom contributed to this exhibition. "Garde-robe," Musée des Arts de la Mode et du Textile, Tue-Sat, 11am to 6pm; Wed until 9pm; Sat-Sun, 10am to 6pm; 107, rue de Rivoli, 1er, Metro Palais-Royal, tel: 01.44.55.57.50, 35F. "Mariage" In this age of women's lib, alternative lifestyles and debates over P.A.C.S, which would give homosexuals the right to be legally united in France, marriage continues to make people dream. It is this evolution of an ancient rite surrounded by its own special "costume" that the Musée de la Mode et du Costume Galliera focuses on in an exhibition of wedding attire and accessories titled, "Mariage." This show comprises more than 60 works on loan from libraries, Parisian and regional museums, as well as individuals and couture houses, along with items from the museum's own archives. On view are dressing gowns, fans, jewelry, grooms suits and even a doll dressed in bridal gear standing next to her trousseau. "Mariage," Musée de la Mode et du Costume Galliera, Tue-Sun, 10am to 5:40pm, Palais Galliera, 10, rue de Pierre 1er de Serbie, 16e, Metro Iéna, tel: 01.47.20.85.23, 35F. Shop Till You Drop Le Bon Marché boasts one of Paris' largest and best stocked ladies undies departments. In over 200 square meters, you'll find a huge selection of labels and styles ranging from Calvin Klein's sheer bras (249F) and cotton strings (95F) to La Perla's two-toned lace bra (995F) and bikini (570F). While you're busy trying on Lisa Charmel's white lace and ribbon bra (595F) and string (490F) or slipping into Hubert Barrere's silk corset (4250F), your companion can wait for you on one of the comfy crimson velvet sofas situated in the midst of a wonderland of dreamy underpinnings. Le Bon Marché, Mon-Sat, 9am to 7pm, 24, rue de Sèvres (Magasin 1, third floor), 7e, Metro Sèvres-Babylone. Dive into Forum des Halles' young designer space Get out of the GAP mode and into a totally new way of dressing. At the Forum des Halles, you can indulge in fashions created by future stars of style. Enter the Forum at Porte Berger and take the escalator down to the first basement level. Shopping begins at your left with Tim Bargeot and Boutique 102. The first sells fairly simple attire with interesting fabrics and details while the latter sells lots of funky hats and gear from seven different designers. Across the way is Boutique des 10, specializing in avant-garde styles, with shapes and treatments sure to help you stand out from the crowd. Next door, Cinq boasts contemporary wear straight from the drawing boards of more established young designers: Erotokritos, Eric Bergère, Hannoh and Gilles Rosier. Then, walk through the double doors to A&L Tribu, a tiny shop chocked with candles, incense and kinky clothes reminiscent of the '70s. And keep going until you get to Xuly Bet's Funkin' Fashion, cheap, flashy, throw-away wear for the very young at heart. Forum des Halles, Mon-Sat, 10am to 7pm, Metro Les Halles. Cheap thrills Save some of your money for some fun in the sun. Though there are plenty of stores around the city selling inexpensive summer clothes, these stand out as places where you'll find good-looking hot weather gear at reasonable prices. Eram, which has cheap shoe stores scattered around the city, has expanded into an affordable line of lingerie and swimwear. At the time of this writing, I spotted two-piece bikinis for 149F-249F, pareos for 79F and raffia slippers for a meager 99F. Anyone over the age of 18 might want to avoid stores like ProMod during the rest of the year, but for summer, it's an unbeatable choice for little tops, slacks, shorts and floral sundresses. I found bright and cheerful colored cotton knit tops for as little as 59F, cotton shorts and poly-cotton sundresses for 99F and linen blouses for 149F. Zara, on the other hand, is a great store all year round, selling lots of attractive and stylish clothes for women and men. The quality of the clothing sold here is good and prices are just right, falling on average between 259-369F for everything from linen pants and shirts to cotton dresses, skirts and the latest look in shoes (most sandals were 199F). This Spanish-based chain of stores changes its merchandise every few weeks so you always have a reason to return. Eram, Mon-Sat, 10am to 7pm, 7, bd St-Michel, 5e, tel: 01.43.26.52.14; ProMod, Mon-Sat, 10am to 7pm, 60, rue Caumartin, 9e, tel: 01.45.26.01.11; Zara, Mon-Sat, 10am to 7pm, 18, bd des Capucines, 9e, tel: 01.42.68.31.10. (All of these stores have other outlets.) Where to browse On a sunny day, discover the craftsmen under the red brick arches of avenue Daumesnil, near the Gare de Lyon at the Viaduc des Arts, developed about five years ago to showcase the wares of artists and artisans. Among the more interesting shops, you'll discover: Cécile Jeanne (#49), interesting contemporary jewelry resembling the gold and silver tone resin necklaces of Biche de Bere but more intricate; Marie Lavande (#83), restoration of antique house linens; Atelier Tallec (#95), hand-painted, porcelain objects; Automats et Poupées (#97), restoration and sale of antique dolls and automated figurines; Fireworks (#101), modern glassworks and sculpture made on the premises; Meurgey Plasait (#111), silversmiths and coppersmiths where you can buy elegant kitchen and table accessories and Jean-Jacques Brousseau (#129), hatmaker par excellence selling all sorts of head gear from berets to wide brimmed straw hats. On a rainy day, stroll through the city's more chic covered arcades. The Galerie Vivienne (4, rue des Petits Champs, near Metro Bourse) is the grandest and the most elegant of all the indoor malls. With its wrought-iron grillwork and luminous rotunda rimmed with bas reliefs of the muses holding wreaths, it is lined with chic stores and trendy eateries. One of the most famous of its residents is the Jean Paul Gaultier boutique (entrance at 6, rue Vivienne), spread over two floors in what was once a fabric warehouse. There's also Yuki Tori, Bonnie Cox and Catherine Vernous, Cutler and Gross eyewear, and Lucien Legrand Filles et Fils, a store selling everything for the wine connoisseur. Stop and have tea at A Priori Thé or stroll next door to the Galerie Colbert, a smaller, yet equally magnificent arcade. With its light filled hallways, faux marble columns, brass and globe lighting and breathtaking glass and iron rotunda, it is a perfect place to browse. Discover the fashion neighborhoods of Paris beginning with a visit to avenue Montaigne. From Christian Dior to Calvin Klein, here is where the biggest names in international high fashion reside. Stroll past the art galleries on the avenue Matignon and on to the rue du faubourg St-Honoré for more names in luxury: Christian Lacroix, Hermès, YSL, Versace and many more. Browse the art galleries, tea salons and antique shops at place des Vosges in the Marais and stop for more designer labels including Issey Miyake and Popy Moreni. Look for trendy gear from place des Victoires, near rue Etienne Marcel, you'll find cutting-edge fashion at Absinthe (74, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau), Kiliwatch (5, rue d' Argout) for an eclectic mix of antique clothes and trendy new gear; Http:// (12, rue de Turbigo) for the hottest look among young Brits and Belgians and Kashiyama (80, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau) for discounted designer wear from its St-Germain shop, just to name a few. And... if you do get a chance to get away for a few days, head to Louis Vuitton first. The luxury luggage firm publishes a line of slim travel companions to all major vacation hotspots as well as a series of collectable log books featuring watercolors by key artists. After Paris, London and Tokyo, this year's edition features New York City as seen by famed fashion illustrator Ruben Toledo (300F). |
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